I am on the move exploring Sicily again, searching and exploring to find the best things this Mediterranean island has to offer.  I heard about Ragusa from some locals who encouraged me to visit this charming little town. I was told, “If you want to see how Sicily looked like in the 17th century, you need to go there”.

Well, I have it on my sight and I want to see what this town is all about. My camera is fully charged, so let’s see what I can discover and learn about this area. I am intrigued and ready to explore this city. Ragusa here I come!

About Ragusa Ibla

Ragusa is considered one of the most picturesque towns in Sicily. From the upper part of the town, sitting on its own hilltop, gives spectacular views of Ragusa Ibla, and the view is breathtaking. You will quickly understand why Ragusa is listed as one of the UNESCO Baroque towns of southeastern Sicily. This town is also a filming location for various Italian films to include the popular Il Commissario Montalbano (Inspector Montalbano), a series which has promoted the beauty of the area. With a new airport at Comiso just 16km away, this destination is definitely on the rise for those wanting to explore Sicily.

Ragusa is in the Monti Iblei, a mountain range that straddles the provinces of Ragusa, Syracusa, and Catania, divided up by limestone rock walls and incised with ravines. Originally built on a small steep-sided hill with deep valleys on three sides separating it from the high plateau. A 17th century earthquake destroyed many of its buildings, and it was decided to rebuild Ragusa on higher, more level ground nearby.

This newly planned town was built with simple streets and a more rational layout, but the local aristocrats were reluctant  not keen to move, and therefore built new palaces on the ruins of the old town, which sits on top of the hill instead.  So today Ragusa is made of two parts: Ibla (or Ragusa Ibla), the older core at the top of the hill, and Ragusa Superiore, a more modern upper town that stretches from the post-earthquake streets to the newer developments. Like many Sicilian towns, Ragusa shares historic buildings with ugly modern sprawls, but the unique thing is that it is far from the historic center, making it remarkably unspoiled.

Things To Do In Ragusa

Ragusa is a beautiful place to visit. I ended up parking in the free parking lot and took off on foot for the rest of the day until evening. Here is what I recommend you see.

Walk Via Mazzini For The Views

When I first arrived, I started making my way up the hill walking through Via Mazzini. This road is strategically located between the historic center of Ragusa Superiore and Ragusa Ibla, a few steps from the stairs that connect both parts of the city and above the terrace in front of the Church of Santa Maria delle Scale. One of the most popular spots for photographers.

Deliberately off the course and use the many side stairs to help you get to the top faster. You will be walking through alleyways and potentially someone else’s front terrace. Keep looking towards the historic center and witness how it’s beauty transforms as you climb higher.

If you continue past the Church of Santa Maria delle Scale, you will encounter the Church of Santa Lucia. Here you will find that the terrace is perfect setting for a panoramic view of Ragusa Ibla.

Look around and enjoy the view. I also recommend going back in the evening and seeing how it lights up at night. It is a completely different experience worth checking out. From here, I recommend you start working your way back down Via Mazzini and head towards the “The Church Trail”.

Walk Along the Church Trail

There are many churches in Ragusa and I certainly don’t expect you to visit all of them, but these are some that I have stumbled across on my way to the other side of the town that are worth visiting. These churches are truly true works of art that represent the Baroque period of 17th Century Sicily.

Chiesa di Santa Maria dell’Itria

Use the blue beacon to start making your way towards it. This bell tower is part of the Church of Santa Maria dell’Itria, a Roman Catholic church, built in the 14th century by the Knights of Malta. It is situated between two palaces in a narrow alley leading up to the plateau of Ragusa in the former Jewish quarter known as Cartellone.

This church was not damaged during the earthquake. It later received its Baroque facade in 1740, which can still be admired today. The interior consists of a central nave and two aisles separated by Corinthian columns. The Cross of the Knights of Malta can be seen on the door as well as on the decoration above the door.

Chiesa del Purgatorio

Just around the corner from the previous church, you will find this magnificent structure dedicated to all the souls in Purgatory, The Sentissime Anime del Purgotorio church. This church was one of the very few that survived the natural disaster.

The façade of the church of the Holy Souls, like many other churches in Ragusa, is characterized by its steep staircase that enhances and enriches the entrance, consisting of two rows topped with a tympanum. It’s worth taking a look inside to see the painting by Francesco Manno, Anime in Purgatorio, Souls in Purgatory.

Chiesa di San Giuseppe

This church was commissioned by the Benedictine nuns from a nearby monastery. San Giuseppe is an elegant 18th century church known for its stunning Baroque façade and fresco that adorns the inner cupola.

Duomo Di San Giorgio

If you have visited enough Italian cities, you will hear about it having a Duomo, generally referring to the main cathedral in town. And for many years, before the unification of Ragusa Ibla and Ragusa Superiore, the Duomo di San Giorgio was a cathedral for those who lived in the city’s ancient core.

Constructed and designed by Rosario Gagliardi in the 18th century, the façade, with its 250 steps upwards, took nearly 40 years to complete with the impressive neoclassical dome; modeled after that of Paris’ Pantheon, which was added in 1820.

Being the most eye-catching building in Ragusa Ibla, it is considered one of the finest examples of Baroque architecture in all of Sicily.  Art historian Maurizio Fagiolo dell’Arco even went so far as to say that the Duomo should be included among “the seven wonders of the baroque world”. Being the most eye-catching building in Ragusa Ibla, it is considered to be one of the greatest examples of Baroque architecture in all of Sicily. The art historian Maurizio Fagiolo dell’Arco went so far as to say that the Duomo should be included among “the seven wonders of the baroque world”.

Release The Foodie With

I only had the opportunity to stay for a day, but you will quickly realize that not only is this place full of churches, but also restaurants, including those who have earned Michelin-star status. You’ll be amazed at on how easy it is to find region specific dishes and snacks, along with amazing pastries.

I ended up at a local small snack shop called, Salumeria Barocco. Get the mixed assortment of cheeses and salamis with some fresh bread with a glass of local wine on the side. It is the perfect snack to power me through the evening to be able to explore the town at night.

Giardino Ibleo

At the edge of the town, I found the Giordino Ibleo.  Established in the mid-19th Century on the ruins of the San Giorgio Cathedral, the garden offers a much needed break from the heat when visiting Ragusa in the middle of summer. Its tall palm trees cast aperfect layer of shade across curated lawns and collections of Mediterranean plants.

The Garden is also a sanctuary of three separate churches (San Domenico, San Giacomo and the Capuchin church), and there is also a small area of archeological excavation that has uncovered a number of important details from the times of ancient Hylba. Be sure to head to the farthest area of the garden opposite from the entrance to enjoy the view of the valley.

Tip: Before or after your visit, check out the Portale San Giorgio Vecchio, the gothic portal of the destroyed cathedral.  The entrance to the small street is to the right of the garden entrance.

Get Lost Within The Streets of Ragusa

One of the greatest advantages of this place is its picturesque setting. Probably my favorite thing to do during this visit was just strolling around and plunging into every street and alleyway as possible. I explored until my camera died.

Being lost in Ragusa, is very much the expectation of the day, you will find the fabric of this town is made up of winding alleys, stone staircases and narrow streets rarely unfolding out before you in a logical manner, and only to be mastered by those that call Ibla home.

Go with the flow and vibe of the town and do not resist the antiquated layout. I suggest you put the map aside and follow your senses driven by curiosity. You will witness magnificent courtyards and churches of all sizes, and most importantly, hidden views and Sicilian picture-postcard scenes.

How To Get To Ragusa Ibla

By Plane

The nearest airport to Ragusa is Comiso (16 km away). Mainly served by low-cost airlines traveling from mainland Italy and several European destinations.

Upon arrival in Comiso, you have several options to reach Ragusa from the airport.

• The Sicily Shuttle. This is a door-to-door shuttle service that takes approximately 30 minutes. Ticket price depends on how many people are in your travel group, and the ticket price is €45 for two.
• Local bus. There are many local bus companies that service that area. See here for a full list and timetables (scroll down the page)
• Taxi. Expect to pay somewhere in the region of €30-40.
• Rental car. There are many rental companies at the airport that you can book here.

Another option is Catania Airport (110 km away), which has more frequent flights from  various destinations.

• Bus from Catania airport to Syracuse, then the train to Ragusa.
• Bus from Catania airport to Catania city, then change on the bus to Ragusa.
• Private shuttle.
• Rental car.

By Car

Since I live here, I drove from Brucoli to Ragusa. I would argue that this city is a great base and/or stop if you are going on a (road trip) tour of eastern Sicily, but be aware that there are many ZTLs (zones of restricted circulation), that are put in place to protect historic centers. If you find a place to stay, I advise you to check the parking situation in your accommodation facility in advance.

If you visit Ragusa for the day like me; when looking for an alternative parking space, I recommend going straight to this large and easily accessible free parking lot (Google Maps) just outside the walls of Ragusa Ibla.

By Bus

There are regular buses to and from Syracusa, Noto, Modica and Agrigento with AST, as well as to Catania (via Catania airport) with ETNA Trasporti.

For those who wish to visit the beach, there are frequent buses to Marina di Ragusa with TUMINO.

All buses depart from the Ragusa bus terminal.

By Train

Surprisingly, there are really good train connections between the towns of Ragusa and Noto, Syracuse, Modica, Vittoria and Gela. Timetables and the possibility of booking tickets in advance can be found at either Trenitalia or Italiarail. I have downloaded the app for Trenitalia and it is easy to plan my trips via train. The train station is located in Ragusa’s new town, from which you can hop on one of the local AST buses to Ibla.

Final Thoughts

I have to say that Ragusa really made me feel like I was in Sicily during a different time period. It is an amazing town that is becoming popular with travelers from all over the world. I am glad that I came to visit it during the off-season, when there was hardly anyone walking the streets. When I head back towards the southeastern part of the island again, I will be sure to stop by and explore it again.

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Which town have you visited that made you feel like you were in a different time period? Feel free to leave questions and comments about this post and I will respond as soon as possible.

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