Living in Sicily for two years has made me interested in the history and culture of Sicily, especially the prehistoric period before the Greek colonization.  That’s why I decided to visit the Necropolis of Pantalica, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that contains over 5,000 rock-cut tombs dating from the 13th to the 7th centuries BC. I wanted to see for myself how the ancient people of this island lived and died, and what kind of legacy they have left behind.

How To Get To Pantalica

I drove from Syracuse to Sortino, following the signs to Pantalica. The road was winding and narrow, passing through some picturesque villages and olive groves. After about an hour, I reached a parking area where I left my car and started walking along a dirt path that led me to the entrance of the necropolis. I was greeted by a sign that explained the history and significance of the site.

The necropolis of Pantalica is located on a limestone promontory surrounded by a deep gorge formed by the Anapo and Calcinara rivers. It was one of the main settlements of eastern Sicily during the Bronze Age and the Iron Age, dominating the surrounding territory with its strategic position and natural defenses.  

What To See in Pantalica

The necropolis of Pantalica is divided into five cemeteries spread over a large area: Filiporto, North West, North East, South East and Cavetta. The most impressive and accessible ones are Filiporto and North West, where you can see hundreds of tombs carved into the rock face in various shapes and sizes. Some of them have square or rectangular entrances, while others have round or oval ones. The tombs were used as collective burial chambers for families or clans, and some of them contain traces of paintings or inscriptions.

I decided to start from the North, which is the oldest and largest part of the necropolis. Here I saw hundreds of square-shaped tombs cut into the vertical cliffs, some of them with carved doors and windows. The tombs were arranged in rows or clusters, creating a striking contrast with the green vegetation and the blue sky.  I learned that these tombs belonged to the families of the local elites, who ruled over Pantalica from the 13th to the 10th centuries BC. They were buried with their personal belongings, such as pottery, jewelry, weapons, and tools.

The tombs are not the only attraction of Pantalica. On top of the hill, you can find the remains of the Anaktoron (Prince’s Palace), a large building that resembles the Mycenaean palaces of Greece. The palace was probably built in the 12th century BC by a local ruler named Hyblon, who is mentioned by the ancient historian Thucydides as the founder of Megara Hyblaea, an early Greek colony near Syracuse. The palace consists of several rooms arranged around a central courtyard, and some of them have stone benches or platforms that may have been used as beds or altars.

As I walked among these humble tombs, I felt a sense of respect and admiration for these people who managed to survive in such a harsh environment. I also felt a sense of connection with them, as they were part of my ancestral heritage. I wondered if they had any descendants who still live in Sicily today.

What To Do In Pantalica

Besides admiring the ancient tombs and exploring the palace and the cave, there are many other things you can do in Pantalica. You can enjoy a picnic in one of the many shaded areas along the river banks, where you can also swim or kayak in the clear water.

I decided to end my visit with a swim in one of the natural pools that are formed by the rivers at the bottom of the gorge. I descended a steep staircase that led me to a wooden bridge that crossed over the Calcinara stream. I followed a trail that took me to a secluded spot where I saw a clear and refreshing pool surrounded by rocks and trees. I stripped off my clothes and plunged into the water, feeling its coolness on my skin.

I swam for a while, enjoying the silence and solitude. I felt like I was in another world, far away from civilization and modernity. I felt like I was closer to nature and to history. I felt like I was part of Pantalica.

Pantalica is not a touristy place, but rather a hidden gem that deserves more attention and care. It is a place where you can experience a different side of Sicily, one that is rich in history and culture, but also in natural beauty and tranquility. If you are looking for a unique and memorable adventure, don’t miss this opportunity to visit Pantalica.

Tips and advice

Before visiting Pantalica, here are some tips and advice to make your trip more enjoyable:

• Wear comfortable shoes and clothes, as the terrain is uneven and rocky.
• Bring water and snacks, as there are no shops or restaurants on site.
• Avoid visiting during the hottest hours of the day, especially in summer, as there is little shade on site.
• Respect the environment and do not litter or damage any of the tombs or structures.
• Be careful not to disturb or touch any of the bats in the cave.
• Book your guide in advance if you want to visit the cave or learn more about the history and culture of Pantalica.

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I hope you liked my travel blog post about Pantalica. If you have any questions or feedback, please let me know and comment below. Keep exploring Beyond The Wire!

• hiking
• nature
• Sicily