Discovering The Hidden Gem of Tonnara di Santa Panagia
If you are looking for a place to escape the crowds and enjoy the beauty of nature and history, you might want to visit Tonnara di Panagia, a former tuna fishing village, now ghost town, located on a rocky promontory north of Syracuse, Sicily. This place is not only a stunning spot for swimming and snorkeling, but also a fascinating testimony of the ancient tradition of tuna fishing in Sicily.
About The Tonnara di Panagia
Tonnara di Panagia dates back to the 12th century, when it was established as a “tonnara di ritorno”, meaning a tuna fishery that caught the fish returning to the open sea after their mating season. The fishery was under the jurisdiction of the Royal Chamber of Syracuse during the Spanish rule, and then passed to various private owners over the centuries. The buildings that you can see today were probably rebuilt in the 18th century, after the devastating earthquake of 1693 that destroyed many towns in eastern Sicily.
The tonnara was active until the 1950s, when it became almost obsolete due to the introduction of new fishing techniques and the pollution caused by nearby industries and refineries. However, some attempts to revive the fishery were made until the 1970s, when it was finally abandoned. It is estimated that the tonnara employed about 30 fishermen, who lived in a small community with a chapel dedicated to Saint Lucia and a grocery store.
How to Get to Tonnara di Panagia
Today, Tonnara di Panagia is a forgotten and neglected site, but it still retains its charm and mystery. You can access it by following a dirt road from the main road that connects Syracuse to Catania, by parking here located here. You will walk the rest of the way to the site that is located here. I am not going to lie, the walk is very interesting. You will notice that this was once a place where illegal dumping was occurring, but trust me you are on the write path. An interesting thing you will find is a World War II Bunker. Once you reach the entrance, you will see a dilapidated house that used to be a guardhouse, and then you will enter the complex of buildings that surround a small harbor.
What See in Tonnara di Panagia
The main attraction is the “baglio”, or courtyard, where the tuna were processed and stored in large barrels. You can still see some of the original equipment, such as hooks, ropes, nets, scales, and wooden beams. You can also admire the view of the sea and the Mount Cofano from the terrace, where you can imagine how the fishermen used to spot and catch their prey.
Next to the baglio, there is a small church carved into the rock, called Oratorio di Santa Panagia. This is one of the oldest parts of the tonnara, and it contains some faded frescoes depicting scenes from the life of Mary. The church was used by the fishermen and their families for their religious ceremonies and prayers.
If you are feeling adventurous, you can also explore the rocky coast around the tonnara, where you will find some caves and coves that offer a refreshing dip in the clear water. You might even spot some fish or other marine creatures that inhabit this area. Be careful though, as some parts of the coast are steep and slippery.
Tonnara di Panagia is not a touristy place, but rather a hidden gem that deserves more attention and care. It is a place where you can experience a different side of Sicily, one that is rich in history and culture, but also in natural beauty and tranquility. If you are looking for a unique and memorable adventure, don’t miss this opportunity to discover Tonnara di Panagia.
I hope you liked my travel blog post about Tonnara di Panagia. If you have any questions or feedback, please let me know and comment below. Keep exploring Beyond The Wire!