MODICA, AN ATTRACTIVE BAROQUE TOWN FAMOUS FOR ITS CHOCOLATE
In my quest to explore all eight UNESCO World Heritage Val di Noto towns and cities I have found myself in the town famous for its chocolate, Modica. Only a 40 minute drive from Ragusa or Noto, Modica is nestled with in a valley formed by four hills.
Its architectural facade was changed forever, due to a devastating earthquake that occurred 1693, from a medieval town, molded into the rock, was replaced by stunning baroque facades.
ABOUT MODICA
Built around a junction of steep valleys, Modica is split into two parts. There is Modicat Alta (‘Upper Modica), the older part of town; and Modica Bassa (‘Lower Modica’) the more recent, yet still historic district towards the bottom of the valley. Rivers once ran down Modica’s valleys, lined with buildings, but after a terrible flood in 1902, they were covered over. Modica’s main street, Corso Umberto I, follows the course of one of these rivers, in the valley to the west of Modica Alta. Today the busiest part of the town centre is at the junction of two valleys where Corso Umberto opens into Piazza Municipio, overlooked by an eighteenth-century hilltop clocktower.
THINGS TO SEE IN MODICA
This lower part of Modica is busy, heavily-trafficked and thriving. Up steep slopes lies the upper town old medieval quarter. Parts of the old town still retain the decrepit down-at-heel charm of a Sicilian village maintaining its authenticity as the years go by. Some parts are renovated and restored. The small narrow lanes, alleys and staircases climb up the slopes on both sides of Via Corso Umberto, towards the upper town and up the hillsides. With Sicilian drivers dashing perilously up and down these lanes, there is plenty to see and explore.
Palazzo della Cultura
The Palazzo della Cultura is the former Monastery of the Benedictine Sisters, which was active during the seventeenth century until 1860, when it was requisitioned by the royal government. Today two museums are housed in the palace, the civic museum and the chocolate museum.
Civic Museum
Travelers with an interest in antiquities should not miss the museum. Located in Corso Umberto; this place is closed on Mondays and has a small admission fee. Originally started by a local collector, it now ranges with fossils to majolica ware. If this isn’t your thing them move on to the next thing, I will stay here a while.
Exhibits include Greek and Roman ceramics, and grave goods from the Modica area including the archaeological site of Cava d’Ispica. The museum’s prize exhibit, which would be worth the admission fee on its own, is a bronze statue of Hercules that sits only 22cm high. Accidentally found in a river bed in 1967, the statue is Hellenic in style and more likely dates to the 3rd century BC. Hercules stands confident, his weight shifted towards one leg, in a little masterpiece of dynamism and elegance.
Chocolate Museum
The museum celebrates Modica’s history of chocolate. Modica’s chocolate is the oldest in the world and the only European chocolate recognized as a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) product, since 2018. This is why Modica boasts the title of “City of Chocolate”.
Inside you will find an impressive 9-meter miniature Italy made entirely of chocolate from Modica. You will also find various sculptures and works of art made with the inspiration of chocolate.
Duomo di San Pietro
Modica has a remarkable number of important churches, but there are two grand Baroque cathedrals you can not miss. Up a flight of steps from Corso Umberto, the Duomo di San Pietro was originally built in the 14th century, but destroyed by earthquakes in 1613 and again in 1693 before being rebuilt in the Baroque style in the 18th century. The church overshadows this stretch of Corso Umberto, and its steps are decorated with large statues of apostles and saints that welcome you in.
Duomo di San Giorgio
Higher on the hill towards the old town you will find the impressive Duomo di San Giorgio, Modica Alta’s most remarkable and most important cathedral. Like most of the area’s great architecture, it was built in the local Baroque style after the 1693 earthquake. The grand façade rises up into a curved central bell tower and its twin staircases climb the church with attractive gardens swarming with roses, wisteria and palms.
The church interior is well decorated with gilding and pastel blue stucco, and contains a number of interesting sights including a statue of St. George carried around town in the saint’s festivities, a rich silver altarpiece and an old, worn marble stoup, also featuring St. George. Look out for the solar meridian line across the transept, with a small hole (‘gnomon’) high up to let in the required ray of sunlight. On the left of the church is the elegant Baroque Palazzo Polara. Up a few steps just to the right of the church is Caffè Duomo, a cafe with a couple of outside tables on a little terrace; a pretty spot.
Castello dei Conti
The Castle of the Counts of Modica is the visual symbol of the city. Situated on the top of a rocky outcrop, it has been for centuries a real warning to enemies, a natural defense for the county capital. The fragmented recorded history acquired so far for the fortress does not allow for researchers to formulate a complete picture of the settlement of people in this area.
The Castello dei Conti, as we see it today, is the result of a massive reconstruction that was started after the earthquake after 1779.
Crypt of Saint Domenico
The church, known also as the Church of Santa Maria del Rosario, is located near the Town Hall of the city, in Piazza Principe di Napoli. This church is one of the few buildings that remained intact after the earthquake of 1693, which caused over 60,000 deaths and almost completely destroyed the nearby cities like Catania, Ragusa, Noto and Syracuse.
Mostly missed by many visitors, head towards the atrium. You will find an interesting underground crypt from the 17th century, which was discovered by Giovanni Modica Scala in the mid-20th century. The crypt contains bone remains, more likely belonging to the Dominican friars.
